By Nick Dekker
Posted On: Dec 22, 2022
Even before he appeared on season 18 of Bravo's Top Chef in 2021, chef Avishar Barua was a fixture of the central Ohio dining scene. He had worked in kitchens like Veritas in Delaware (which since moved to downtown Columbus) before settling in as head chef at Middle West Spirits' restaurant, Service Bar.
In the fall of 2022 he finally opened his first restaurant, described as a "seriously fun Bengali American daytime café." Taking over a former bakery in charming Old Worthington, Joya's is named for Barua's mother. She can sometimes be seen back in the kitchen or shuttling food to tables.
Joya's is a long, narrow space with a deep counter overlooking an espresso machine. Another thin counter lines the opposite wall, while a collection of tables near the front and outside on the sidewalk offer places to sit. The café is currently open for breakfast and lunch hours, although Barua hosts private dinners in the space some evenings.
Leading off the focused menu is a roster of tea and coffee. Drip coffee, cold brew (available on nitro, too!), and espresso drinks are all made using locally roasted Thunderkiss Coffee, while creamy Woodruff Farms milk goes into the cortados, cappuccinos, mochas, and lattes.
Even as a coffee fan, I'm regularly reminded not to skip the tea. The nitro chai tea incorporates maple, malted milk, and a house-made masala, but the real winner is Joya's milk chai made from her signature recipe using lightly sweetened Ceylon tea and evaporated milk.
When you're ordering at the counter, don't miss the daily selection of snacks and sweets. They'll range from savory samosas and egg chops (similar to Scotch eggs) to cookies and soft, glazed donuts.
Joya's menu covers a half dozen items, and each one is a winner. Barua is known for his playful cooking, often drawing on his heritage while riffing on Midwestern favorites. These include his elegantly composed breakfast sandwich to the crispy chicken Manchurian sandwich, a kati roll with lamb, and an all-inclusive Joya's Toast in a Box.
Other favorites include his take on fried rice and pad Thai as well, but one of his signatures, popularized back at Service Bar, is the Cheesy Double Crunch. It’s his take on a fast food favorite, but he amps it up by wrapping a choice of braised beef, grilled chicken, or crispy potatoes with black beans along with queso, cheddar, lettuce, salsa, and a sesame salsa macha in both a paratha and crispy corn tortilla.
On top of all these hits, Barua has started introducing "secret" menu items. You'll have to spy them out on Joya's Instagram page and plan a visit around them (I've heard the burger is amazing!).
Central Ohio is certainly proud of Barua's showing on Top Chef – on one of the first episodes he wowed the judges with his take on a buckeye ice cream! And we're excited to taste more of his work. Joya's has stayed busy since it opened in the fall, and Barua is currently working on his second restaurant, a live-fire cooking spot in Columbus' Brewery District called Agni. Look for it to open in early 2023, and keep up with the chef on Instagram at @avishar.
Joya's Café is located on 657 High St. in Worthington (43085). Look over the menu and learn more about these delicious dishes at eatatjoyas.com.
For more restaurants and dining, check out #OhioFindItHere at Ohio.org.
